Friday, August 4, 2017

Giardini by Babani (1924)

Launched in 1924, Giardini was one of the refined perfume creations by the French couture house Babani, led by Maurice Babani. The name Giardini is the Italian word for “gardens,” pronounced "jah-ahr-DEE-nee." The choice of an Italian word, rather than a French one, feels deliberate—suggesting exoticism, elegance, and a cultivated sense of romance that would have appealed to women of the time. The word “Giardini” conjures images of formal Renaissance gardens, sunlit floral terraces, and sensuous Mediterranean evenings. Emotionally, it evokes feelings of cultivated beauty, serenity, and natural luxury—an escapist reverie rendered in scent.

The early 1920s were a period of immense cultural change and artistic innovation in Europe. The trauma of World War I was still fresh, but society was beginning to embrace a new spirit of liberation and modernity. This era—known as Les AnnĂ©es Folles in France (The Crazy Years) and as the Roaring Twenties in the Anglophone world—was marked by a fascination with Orientalism, exoticism, and a love of all things decorative and lush. In fashion, Paul Poiret had already introduced Eastern silhouettes and opulent textures, and Babani, known for importing luxurious fabrics and garments from the Middle East and Asia, capitalized on that trend. Maurice Babani was not only a couturier but also one of the early French fashion houses to produce perfumes as extensions of their aesthetic vision.

Against this backdrop, Giardini would have felt perfectly in tune with the times—yet with its floral composition, it also reached for a timeless quality. Women in the 1920s were newly independent; they were driving cars, voting, and cutting their hair into bobs. Yet even as they embraced sleek, modern silhouettes and unstructured chemise dresses, fragrance remained a medium for expressing femininity, mood, and sensuality. A perfume named Giardini, with its association to cultivated nature and delicate refinement, would have appealed to the modern woman as a symbol of both freshness and sophistication.



Scent-wise, Giardini was described as a floral fragrance with dominant notes of “crushed gardenias,” jasmine, and “garden pinks” (an old-fashioned term for certain species of Dianthus). The image of crushed gardenias suggests intensity—creamy, slightly indolic, and deeply feminine—rather than a dainty bouquet. In this way, the perfume presented an immersive olfactory experience, as if one were walking through a walled garden at dusk, brushing up against fragrant petals warmed by the sun. Jasmine added a narcotic, sensual depth, while the “garden pinks” offered a peppery, bright counterpoint.

In the competitive world of 1920s perfumery, Giardini was not necessarily radical in its composition, but its presentation and positioning set it apart. Many floral perfumes of the time were characterized by aldehydic brightness (Chanel No. 5, for example, had debuted just a few years earlier in 1921), but Giardini embraced a lush, naturalistic white floral style. What made it special was Babani's concept of layering—as stated in period advertising: “Giardini may be harmonized with other Babani perfumes to create an individual perfume formula which everyone will envy without being able to imitate.” This bespoke approach to scent, allowing women to customize their olfactory identity, was ahead of its time and aligned with the modern woman's desire for self-expression.

Ultimately, Giardini by Babani was more than just a floral fragrance; it was a poetic gesture—a garden of scent imagined as wearable beauty. It stood as a fragrant reflection of its era: romantic yet modern, refined yet expressive, and designed to leave a trail of individuality behind every woman who wore it.



Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? Giardini is classified as a floral-aldehydic oriental fragrance for women with a strong white-floral bouquet. It was described of smelling "as exotic as crushed gardenias" and "garden pinks."
  • Top notes: bergamot oil, lemon, neroli oil, orange blossom absolute, methyl anthranilate, benzyl acetate, styrallyl acetate, linalyl acetate, aldehyde C-10, linalool, octyl acetate, almond, cassie, amyl salicylate
  • Middle notes:  isobutyl phenylacetate, hydroxy citronellol , Bourbon ylang ylang oil, gardenia, tuberose absolute, bois de rose oil, rose absolute, geranyl formate, jasmine absolute, indole, phenyl methyl acetate, terpineol, carnation , clove, isoeugenol, cinnamon, cinnamic alcohol,  caryophyllene, orris, ionone
  • Base notes: tonka bean, coumarin, ambergris tincture, musk, musk ambrette, vanilla tincture, vanillin, Siam benzoin, storax, phenylethyl alcohol, rhodinol, heliotropin, benzyl alcohol, benzyl formate, Peru balsam, tolu balsam, clary sage

Scent Profile:


Giardini opens like the first breath taken upon entering a sun-warmed conservatory, where citrus peels glisten on marble tables and white blossoms bruise under gentle fingers. Bergamot oil, with its luminous green-gold bitterness—especially prized when sourced from Calabria for its floral smoothness rather than sharp acidity—lends a refined sparkle, while lemon cuts through with a brisk, crystalline clarity.

Neroli oil, distilled from bitter orange blossoms, is green, slightly bitter, and honeyed all at once; Paired with the richer, waxier orange blossom absolute, it creates a full spectrum of blossom—from dew-fresh petals to narcotic pollen. Methyl anthranilate, naturally present in orange flower, adds a grape-like, indolic sweetness that exaggerates the flower's sensuality, while benzyl acetate and styralyl acetate provide juicy, pear-and-jasmine facets that make the opening feel succulent and alive. 

Linalyl acetate and linalool, staples of classical perfumery, soften the citrus with lavender-like smoothness and floral cream, acting as aromatic silk that binds the sharper notes together. A flash of aldehyde C-10—fatty, citrus-peel bright, slightly soapy—lifts the entire top into that unmistakable aldehydic glow, making the flowers feel polished and luminous rather than raw. Octyl acetate adds a ripe orange-peel sweetness, while almond and cassie introduces a powdery, honeyed warmth: cassie (acacia) brings sun-dried hay, pollen, and mimosa-like softness, enriched by amyl salicylate, which smells creamy, floral, and slightly herbal, extending the life of the blossoms while giving them a velvety sheen

As the fragrance deepens, Giardini unfolds into its heart—a lavish white-floral bouquet that feels almost tactile, as though petals were being crushed slowly in the hand. Bourbon ylang-ylang oil, especially valued from Madagascar and the Comoros for its buttery, banana-cream richness, lays a languid, tropical base. Gardenia blooms lush and green-creamy, evoking waxy petals and warm skin, intensified by tuberose absolute, whose narcotic, coconut-like sweetness and camphorous edge bring drama and night-blooming intensity. 

Jasmine absolute, indolic and animalic, breathes life into the bouquet; indole, isolated and controlled, heightens the natural jasmine's sensual depth without tipping into decay, giving the flowers their “living” warmth. Rose absolute—especially when drawn from Bulgaria or Grasse—adds wine-dark petals and honeyed spice, while bois de rose oil (rosewood) contributes a gentle, rosy-violet woodiness. Hydroxycitronellol, fresh and lily-of-the-valley-like, brightens the heart and prevents it from becoming too heavy, lending a dewy translucence to the florals. Isobutyl phenylacetate, fruity-green and floral, enhances the natural rose and jasmine notes, making them feel more vibrant. 

Geranyl formate and phenyl methyl acetate weave in rosy-fruity nuances, while terpineol adds lilac-like freshness. Spices bloom quietly beneath the flowers: carnation, clove-like and powdery, reinforced by clove oil, isoeugenol, cinnamon, and cinnamic alcohol, which contribute warmth, softness, and a faintly sweet burn. Caryophyllene lends a woody-peppery undertone, grounding the bouquet, while orris and ionone introduce violet-powder—cool, cosmetic, and slightly elegance carrot—recalling fine face powder and silk gloves.

The base of Giardini settles like twilight in the garden, when blossoms release their deepest scents and the air turns balsamic and warm. Tonka bean and coumarin bring a hay-sweet, almond-vanilla warmth that echoes the earlier almond note, while vanilla tincture and vanillin add creamy, comforting depth—natural vanilla giving smoky, rum-like richness, and vanillin providing clarity and diffusion. 

Ambergris tincture, marine, musky, and softly animalic, imparts a salty warmth that makes the fragrance cling to skin, enhanced by traditional musk and the now-historic musk ambrette, which smells sweet, powdery, and slightly floral. Resins glow beneath: Siam benzoin contributes vanillic warmth with a soft incense feel; storax adds leathered sweetness; Peru and Tolu balsams syrup bringy, cinnamon-resin richness that feels plush and old-world. 

Heliotropin, with its almond-vanilla-cherry powderiness, ties the florals to the gourmand elements, while phenylethyl alcohol, rhodinol, benzyl alcohol, and benzyl formate reinforce rose and jasmine tones, extending their presence far into the drydown. A whisper of clary sage, herbal and musky, adds softness and diffusion, ensuring the base never feels static.

Altogether, Giardini smells exactly as it was described: as exotic as crushed gardenias, as lush as garden pinks warming in the sun. The interplay between natural absolutes and carefully chosen aroma chemicals creates a perfume that feels both alive and perfected—where synthetics do not replace nature, but amplify it, polishing petals until they glow. It is a fragrance of cultivated gardens and opulent evenings, unmistakably floral-aldehydic, deeply oriental, and unmistakably of a golden age when perfume was meant to be worn like couture.

Drug and Cosmetic Industry - Volume 40, 1937:

"Babani presents six captivating new odors attractively packaged. The odors are classified into two groups: Oriental and Giardini, Jasmin and Gardenia, the floral. Babani recently opened a distributing office located at 521 Fifth Avenue."



Harper's Bazaar, 1937:

"Babani's "Giardini" takes us back to the fresh scent of garden roses."


Personal Perfumes:


These fragrances were conceived in the true European tradition of perfume as an art of self-expression rather than a fixed identity—a practice in which scent is treated like fabric, jewelry, or gesture, chosen and combined according to mood, hour, and costume. Babani understood perfume not as a signature to be worn unchanged, but as a living material, capable of transformation. Giardini, with its aldehydic brightness and voluptuous white-floral heart, was designed to be especially responsive to this philosophy: luminous on its own, yet remarkably pliant when layered, shifting character as it encounters another fragrance and, through that meeting, revealing new facets of the wearer.

When worn alone, Giardini speaks in florals—gardenias crushed between warm fingers, pinks powdered with spice, blossoms glowing beneath aldehydic light. But when harmonized with another Babani perfume, it becomes something more elusive and personal. Its white flowers soften, deepen, or darken depending on their companion, while its aldehydes lift and polish the blend, ensuring clarity and elegance no matter how rich the composition becomes. The result is never a simple mixture, but a new perfume entirely, one that resists identification. Observers may recognize beauty, warmth, intrigue—but never the formula itself. This was the promise Babani offered: a fragrance that evolves as you do, reflecting your complexity, your contradictions, your charm.

Blended with Ambre de Delhi, Giardini undergoes its most sensual transformation. The florals sink into amber resins, balsams, and oriental warmth, as gardenia and jasmine melt into vanilla, benzoin, and spice. What was once a sunlit garden becomes a perfumed courtyard at dusk, where blossoms glow against dark woods and smoldering resins. The aldehydes soften, no longer sparkling but diffusing the blend like candlelight on silk, while the white flowers take on a deeper, more mysterious voice. The result is neither Giardini nor Ambre de Delhi, but a third creation altogether—opulent, intimate, and impossible to copy.

This is perfume worn not for recognition, but for presence. A scent that seems to change with your moods, to shift as you move from afternoon to evening, from light to shadow, while remaining unmistakably you. In this way, Babani perfumes become collaborators rather than declarations—tools for composing an invisible signature that no one else can claim, and no one can ever remove decipher.




Bottles:



Two distinct bottles were created to house Giardini by Babani, reflecting the brand's dedication to luxury presentation and tiered accessibility. The most prestigious of the two—a true collector's object—was used for the parfum concentration and was referred by Babani as “Bottle X.” This bottle was an imaginative sculptural interpretation of the perfume's name, evoking a manicured garden in miniature form. Crafted from transparent emerald green glass, it was shaped like a square planter resting elegantly on four short feet. Rising from its top was a stopper in the form of a stylized ornamental orange tree or topiary, visually linking the fragrance to its garden-themed concept. The surface of the bottle was richly decorated with hand-applied gilded enamel accents and molded floral motifs that reinforced its horticultural inspiration. One side bore the inscription “Giardini and Babani,” further affirming its identity. It was housed in a green satin-lined presentation box, adding another layer of refinement. The overall height of the bottle was 4 3/8 inches (11 cm), making it not only a perfume container but also a decorative object in its own right.

In contrast, a simpler and more affordable version was also produced, reflecting Babani's desire to make their fragrances available to a broader clientele without sacrificing the thematic presentation. This version was made of clear glass and lacked the dimensional topiary stopper. Instead, the imagery of the ornamental tree was incorporated into the design of its paper label. While more modest, this bottle still referenced the same concept and carried the visual signature of the fragrance.

In terms of pricing, Giardini was positioned as a perfume of distinction. The deluxe topiary bottle retailed for $12.00 in 1925—a considerable sum at the time. Adjusted for inflation, that amount equates to approximately $222.98 in 2025, underscoring the fragrance's status as a luxury item. The simpler bottle retailed for $8.50 in 1925, or roughly $157.95 today, still a significant investment for a bottle of perfume. Both versions were promoted with language emphasizing beauty and exclusivity. As one advertisement described, "Giardini is one of the very new Babani perfumes, the breath of crushed gardenias. A perfume of distinction, is contained within an ornamental tree bottle and encased in a green satin lined box."

These two presentations allowed Giardini to maintain a strong visual identity while appealing to both elite consumers and those aspiring to a touch of high fashion. The use of artistic bottle design as part of a perfume's narrative was very much in line with the practices of luxury houses in the 1920s, and Babani's Giardini is an excellent example of how packaging elevated a fragrance to an art object.
 

Harper's Bazaar, 1925:

"Giardini: a subtle fragrance as smart as gardenias. A bottle that is a formal little tree of green and gold leaves in a gold tub! It comes in a box lined with green satin. $12, other size at $8.50."








Very rare antique "Giardini" purse perfume bottle by Babani in its original presentation box. Made of colorless glass, the bottle is cylindrical tube complete with a stopper ending with a dauber. It has a gold metallic paper label that reads "GIARDINI / BABANI PARIS" with the typical tree motif in center. The bottle was married in a cardboard box covered with silver textured paper with round blue paper label, its interior is lined with green satin. Bottle measures 2.5" tall.




No. 1003. Our twelve extracts in an elegant gold box.




Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1928.

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Note: Please understand that this website is not affiliated with the Elizabeth Arden company in any way, it is only a reference site for collectors and those who have enjoyed the Elizabeth Arden fragrances. The goal of this website is to show the present owners of the Elizabeth Arden company how much we miss the discontinued classics and hopefully, if they see that there is enough interest and demand, they will bring back the perfume! Please leave a comment below (for example: of why you liked the perfume, describe the scent, time period or age you wore it, who gave it to you or what occasion, any specific memories), who knows, perhaps someone from the company might see it.

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